Gloria 2016

This understated 2016 bottle as an age-worthy claret always shows those classy cassis notes with a secondary bouquet of pencil shavings, herbs and a cigar box on the nose. It may lack the floral dimension one may expect from outstanding wines; on entry, it tastes a bit saline, backward with even more structure than recent vintages we tasted, such as 2013 and even 2011, but its tannins are well-blende which will serve correctly as a severe wine. The palate is well balanced, loaded with Asian spices and black pepper that gain consistent support. Every true wine connoisseur is attracted to Chateau Gloria for that little 'unclassified' and 'mysterious' temperament. And Chateau Gloria's quality, which may have exceeded the more prestigious class growths in St. Julien, surpassed some of the even more learned.

Scores are high and consistent: RP93, JS94, LPB94, Decanter94. Willliam Kelley of Parker et al. wrote about Gloria 2016's almost Pauillac fruit profile(crème de cassis and blackberries mingled with sweet spices and liquorice), structure, and concentration. James Suckling awarded it JS94 and commended the dense and layered fruit, the full body with an appropriate toasty finish. Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW reminded us of the little swirling before notions of blackcurrant cordial, kirsch, and stewed black tea spilling from the glass. Then the wine in the glass will give hints of chargrill and wood smoke, finishing with a spicy kick. Also awarding it 94 points, Anson of Decanter wrote about the rich fruit, the fruit focus and delivery, the texture and the tension on the palate all jazzed up to give lots of liveliness.

A bit on the achievements of the owner Henri Martin, a cooper by upbringing, who took over the property in 1942 and began purchasing vineyards from classed growth properties such as Gruaud-Larose, Talbot, Lagrange and Léoville-Barton. By the mid-1960s, he had 50 hectares spread across the appellation. In 1982 he purchased Château St-Pierre and thus realized his lifetime ambition of owning a Grand Cru Classé property. Henri Martin died in 1991, and Gloria, operated by his son-in-law Jean-Louis Triaud is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25%Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. It aged in a combination of large oak foudres and small oak barrels (50% new). The vines are ancient. Along with big brother Saint Pierre, the quality here has improved massively in the last few years, and this is a top St Julien performer these days.