top of page

Title. Double click me.




Château Lafon-Rochet, established in the 17th century and awarded Fourth Growth status in 1855, is known for its tightly coiled wines that require more time. The wines are noted not for finesse but for their excellent depth, which needs more development time. Here, you'll find classic, balanced, old-school St Estèphe flavours. Plenty of ripe red fruits and gentle wafts of blond tobacco aromatics showcase each vintage's balance and simple charms. Lafon Rochet 2005, in particular, exhibits excellent concentration, fine tannins, and a succulent Saint Estephe character with a fine sense of minerality on the finish. The tannin frame remains clear, and the acidity is slightly higher than ideal, but there is plenty of juice and character.


Lafon Rochet is my prime choice for Bordeaux's structure, density, and power, but probably for something other than Chinese cuisine. Recent tastings have consistently yielded 93 points, indicating good stability and quality.


Neal Martin gave it a score of 93. He described the 2005 Lafon-Rochet bouquet as a masterpiece of expression, with notes of raspberry, blackberry, briary, black pepper, and light scents creating a symphony of aromas. NM also mentioned that the palate is medium-bodied with tobacco-tinged red and black fruit, well-balanced, and has a suitable substance. He noted that the 2005 Lafon-Rochet is superb and will continue to drink well for several years, suggesting a drinking window from 2021 to 2036.


Jane Anson also gave this wine 93 points and mentioned that 2005 was a good year for Lafon-Rochet, resulting in consistent and high-quality wines. She described the wine as classic, balanced, and a traditional St Estèphe with plenty of ripe red fruits and gentle hints of blond tobacco aromatics. Anson agreed that while the acidity is high, as some good Bordeaux do, the wine's balance is a testament to its quality and enjoyability, making it hard to resist.






The wine primarily features a well-balanced blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (50%) and Merlot, complemented by a smaller amount of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It showcases a deep ruby colour and a refined bouquet with notes of mixed black fruit, sweet spices, and pepper. The wines from these 3 good years offer a round, solid, and harmonious taste with good complexity, a long finish, and a delicate palate, providing excellent value. It has a medium to medium-deep ruby-red colour and presents good, fresh acidity and balanced alcohol, although the finish is affected by astringent tannins. It still maintains good fruit character with a silky finish. All bottles are currently available.


JS has awarded the 2005 vintage an impressive 93 points, showcasing its exceptional quality. This wine reveals wonderful depth and complexity on the nose, with prominent notes of blueberries, fresh flowers, and hints of stones. It is a full-bodied wine with ultra-refined tannins and a long finish. Although it is already stunning, it is expected to further improve with age. RP scored it 91, and Stazer awarded it 90, reaffirming its consistently high quality across different reviewers.


The 2009 vintage, acclaimed with 93 points by GG, is a strong contender. It boasts an intense garnet-red hue and a profound nose of ripe red fruits subtly enhanced by lightly roasted oak. The wine makes a full, generous, and fruit-forward entry, with a delicious fruit expression supported by pronounced exuberance and a good-length finish despite a slight touch of greenness.


The 2010 vintage receives its highest acclaim, scoring 95 points from Waterfront. It presents distinctive notes of wet forest, truffle, tobacco, cedar, and cassis on the nose. The palate offers vibrant black raspberries, cherries, and spicy cassis. This classically built wine, while still young, would benefit from at least 5-7 more years in the cellar. It has been awarded 93 points.




Our team's deep understanding of Brane-Cantenac is rooted in the meticulous analysis of the first vertical tasting(1996 to 2006) and the second vertical tasting (2000 to 2018), hosted by Owner Henri Lurton years back at the esteemed KCC Wine Society. Comparing this little write-up's 2017 and 2018 vintages was difficult, but our expertise allowed us to discern their unique qualities. Given the ripe and generous temperament of both vintages, Brane-Cantenac 2017 and 2018 are consistent:


  1. The 2017 and 2018 vintages of Brane-Cantenac are a deep ruby with a tight, narrow rim; they exude the aromas of strawberry and red cherry fruit, layered with tobacco and incense notes. The palate is a delightful blend of juiciness and roundedness, cut by a refreshing acidity that lends a cooler, brighter edge to the black fruit at the core. The oak is integrated but smoky, with hints of roasted coffee beans and bonfire. The finish is vibrant, juicy, long and savoury. The attack is complete, robust, and intense, leading to a highly structured mid-palate. Both vintages stay perfumy through our 'drinking'. The fruit profile turns even darker, with a long, leathery, liquorice, oaky finish.

  2. The last drop gives a smooth, silky, feminine tenderness(!) of true Cantenac character.

  3. Both vintages are formed from a blend of 74% cabernet sauvignon, 21% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot, with an ABV of roughly 13.5%


Turning to the 2017 vintage, Wine Enthusiast awarded it 96 points, describing the 'wood'(70% new) palpable, with firm tannins and dense black fruit. This indicates a wine with power, superb concentration, and generous blackberry fruits. JS awarded it 94, emphasizing the value of a tight, focused centre palate for this red with blackberries, dark chocolate, hazelnuts, and smoke-medium to the entire body- with polished tannins and a juicy, lightly chewy mouthfeel. The wine's flavour profile is a delightful blend of these elements, creating a uniquely memorable experience.   


Regarding 2018, RP awarded it 95 and discussed the broad spectrum of nose and palate. He said there were aromas of mushroom, meat, bark, and iodine with blackberries and blackcurrants that follow through to an entire body with firm, creamy tannins that give structure and form to the wine. Tight on the finish; long and persistent with presence. As JS opined on the 2017 vintage, RP thought 2018 was drinking fine now. Lisa Perrotti-Brown awarded this 2018 vintage a 94. Deep garnet-purple coloured, 2018 gives up vibrant notions of baked black plums, stewed black cherries, and creme de cassis, with touches of Indian spices, chocolate mints, and liquorice. Medium to full-bodied, rich, spicy, and seductive. She said it has a firm frame of grainy tannins and just enough freshness, finishing long and plentiful. Jeb Dunnuck awarded this 2018 vintage a score of 96+, emphasizing layers and seamless integration. He admits he is a fan of Brane Cantenac.


The vineyards of Chateau Brane Cantenac, situated on the gravel slopes, are some of the highest within the appellation Cantenac of MARGAUX. The soil depth, a crucial factor in grape quality, is relatively uniform, ranging from 30 to 36 feet. The wine is aged in oak for 18 months, using 70% new French oak, contributing to its unique flavour profile.

This is a consolidation of the tasting and papers

written from 2006 to 2013. These write-ups had been with the orginal site Wine and Beyond, Yahoo, until the service stopped by Yahoo in September 2013.

 

For years I have been working with wines, either buying it, selling it to wine companies, lecturing and writing about it, and, not unimportantly, enjoying it with friends. If any of the articles on this site are worth reading it is due to my teachers, my mentors, my peers and friends, my students, and in particularly my editors who ignite in me a desire to communicate in wines.

 

Clinging to the trellis of wine, I started to get more and more involved with estates and winemakers, by supporting them with consultancy in communication and marketing. The more I spend my time outside Hong Kong, the more I sense a desire to be part of the international wine family.

 

Writing about wine represents a moment of reflection, curiosity, atitudes and a desire to analyse often hidden structures and history, in an effort to make the wealth of wine accessible to a targetted, and hopefully larger audience.

 

I am not sure if I can wine proivde more accessible to all through this blog. But I am sure to write in wine means being involved in wine and  to remain as impartial and objective as possible.

 

Kevin Tang.

Recent Posts
bottom of page