Tradiitonal and meditative BDM. The red fruit profile is cherries, cranberries, plum and wild berries leading to lots of sweet and savoury spices and turning cocoa and dark chocolate on aeration. There are also prominent dry tones of purplish flowers such as lavender and violets. Classic taste/nose meets with the traditional treatment of Slovenia, old cask ageing, resulting in a tight and fresher acidity, despite the 14% ABV from modern making.
'Friggiale' being the major vineyard for this wine, according to a discussion by Monty Waldin and Luca Saladini, means 'cool' or 'windy', 'fresh, or 'ventilated', hence the style, though there is a specific mix of ripeness and freshness, probably from its Southern though West-oriented position. This wine is in great contrast to the other wines from the same makers using grapes from the Poggiotondo site to give modern, round and ripe fruit. Instead, the fruit is bolder from the Pietrofocaia site, which shows more prominent tannins.
The score is not bad- 94 JS.
2014 is fresher and gives slightly more buttery and brioche tones than 2012. Reflecting on 2012, the classic tones on the first nose: floral, green apples and citrusy. The core is of orchard fruit, scents of lifted red berries; textured on the palate with honeycomb, caramel, and biscuity finish. In the finish, there are certain complexities, leanness, and minerality departed from this high-quality 2014 vintage. Overall, it is lightish, fruit-driven and well-balanced flowing from the 13% Pinot Meunier influence, with the remaining 46% Pinot Noir and 41% Chardonnay from Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards in Montagne de Reims, forming the wine's structure and body. DD93. Specs say it has a dosage of 9%, but we don't feel that extent. It cellared for four years and is beyond the specification requirements. The name Canard-Duchene sounds interesting to us, and indeed, it reflects familial connections and their strengths in making their champagne. However, it would seem that the Millesimes version like this one is not so famed as its other Cuvees such as the Authentic Brut, Rose and Leonie. An NM, this bottle has a lightish bottle packaged for frugal drinking. And at this cost performance, we cannot complain.
Updated: Mar 25, 2024
2015 is fresher than 2012, and of course, 2017 is even fresher. All are deep purple- dark and dense for a St. Emilion. Tight, pink rim for 2017, deep-garnet for 2015 and matured brick-red for 2012 for now.
The alcohol on the palate seems slightly higher for all three vintages. The structure is tannic on manifestation for a third wine. Except 2012 which is on the tertiary side, the nose of 2015 and 2017 is still fruity enough, complete, and fully gourmand, showing a solid mid-palate. All give tones of blackcurrants with delicate notes of small black berries, plum, touches of liquorice, and a hint of violet. The palate reflects the nose and is fruity, offering grip, tension, freshness, and suavity. The finish is medium with notes of dark fruit and coffee beans(delicate oak). All vintages are blends of 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon in the ratio and were aged for 15 months in one-year-old barrels. All three vintages are formed from a blend of vines in Côtes do Castillon and young vines from Pavie and Monbousquet.
2012 is long gone, so writing on the non-fruity palate is unfair for a third wine over 12 years of bottle ageing. 2015 is still well commented, though. So, while JS thought highly of this layered wine, awarding JS93, saying it is a juicy and rich red with blackberry and truffle aromas and flavours, as well as body for a 3rd wine, Parker et al., on the other hand, Robert Parker accorded 90 points and says that the 2015 Esprit de Pavie is expressive red and black plums note plus touches of baking spices, vanilla pod, dark chocolate and dried Provence herbs. Medium to full-bodied, the bright fruit fills the mouth with plenty of spicy red and black fruits, supported by chewy tannins and finishing with a refreshing lift. 2017 Esprit de Pavie is fruity, balanced with a chalky finish, which has power for a third wine.The nose is of cassis, black cherry, and, more slightly, blackberry, associated with delicate touches of crushed strawberry and small touches of spices. Tannins are fine and slightly dry. Adequate length.
