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Bright, dark, rubied colour, this bottle has lots of interesting dry extract (rose, violets, lavender, with quality freshness (strawberries fruit) and fruit precision(blackcurrant, pastilles). Well-structured and reasonably complex, this 2007 starts with smoky cassis and new oak (mocha coffee and vanilla), good purity of fruit (ripe red, dark to mix), a bright core and well-worked tannins. With good length as a Cru, this wine is easy without losing the intensity; palate tension is balanced, and it drinks very fine for all occasions. However, if you are looking for a super complex Margaux, this 2007Malescote St Exupery may not be for you.


For vintage 2007, harvest picked late between 9 and 20 October. So there are always some pastille tones/shades to the fruit. Vinification/ Maturation Temperature is controlled and matured in 100% new oak; hence the wine is still bold and powerful despite its bottle age. It undergoes malolactic in the barrel depending on the vintage. Aged on lees with stirring, it gives some adequate intensity and complexities. 13-14 months barrel ageing before being racked without fining or filtration. ABV is just right at 13.5%, so this wine is fulled-bodied. The composition creates better complexity over time: 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 8% Petit Verdot. Soil gravel overlying chalk or marl slopes towards the Gironde. Fruit is picked into trays to prevent crushing. The score is GG92Gilbert & Gaillard, who writes, 'Deep colour. The nose is a mixture of ripe blackcurrant and sweet spice. The palate is pleasantly open to begin but quickly reveals moderately firm tannins. Great balance and ageing potential(edited).'




Understated Champagne from Troissy(Valle de la Marne) mainly consists of mild north-facing slopes, with Pinot Meunier as the dominating grape variety- so the taste is lively with good acidities and easy. However, this Cuvee forms from 40% CHARDONNAY, 30% PINOT MEUNIER, and 30% PINOT NOIR with a ten g/L dosage- fruity start and dru finish. Also, this bottle is super valuable if you consider the cost of making and keeing this Champagne with 30-month lee and the 30% Reserve wines. So, considering all these, the style is a riper, textured, and fruitier style, with a certain earthiness. And we would recommend chilling down slightly below the right temperature to start the serving.


The nose reflects the palate with fresh and candied citrus fruits, and right put by WS, toward the orangy tones of KImquat leading to the creamy mid-palate. Brioche elements(bread, almonds, flint, honey, tobacco) are evident with a textured, liquorice finish. Quite Prolific bubbles(but not too delicate) from the bottle we tasted.


This 2014 is generous in build and forward in fruit, feeling relatively approachable and inviting in their youth. This isn’t to say that this bottle doesn’t have the structure to age, but it is already showing well now. It can probably Age well for 3 to 4 years.


The score is an appropriate 90WS, “A note of woodsy smoke underscores flavours of tangy plum, candied kumquat, white peach and fresh ginger in this mouthwatering Champagne, backed by firm, citrusy acidity. Drink now through 2019. Five thousand cases made.” — 90 points, AN, Wine Spectator(Edited)


Colour to style, that of bright, medium ruby with a tight, pink rim. Succulent cherries, strawberries, and raspberries, with tones of Dry violets. Pleasant and straightforward fruit, and of quality. There are few tertiary elements, mainly because of the style and understandably its lack of bottle development. The palate reflects the noses with freshness, smooth and soft, round tannins. It is a nicely balanced Rosso with quality fruit of over 10 seconds. It is made in the style of its elder brother and not outshined. This Rosso uses a shorter ageing cycle(6+6+12), cold maceration for five days, young fruit with slightly lower fermentation temperature(2 degrees lower), and used big Slovenian. The hand-picked fruit comes from a higher altitude(450M), hence the style. We like this little Rosso as much as well as its siblings Friggiali Brunello di Montalcino 2016 we tasted. DD91.

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This is a consolidation of the tasting and papers

written from 2006 to 2013. These write-ups had been with the orginal site Wine and Beyond, Yahoo, until the service stopped by Yahoo in September 2013.

 

For years I have been working with wines, either buying it, selling it to wine companies, lecturing and writing about it, and, not unimportantly, enjoying it with friends. If any of the articles on this site are worth reading it is due to my teachers, my mentors, my peers and friends, my students, and in particularly my editors who ignite in me a desire to communicate in wines.

 

Clinging to the trellis of wine, I started to get more and more involved with estates and winemakers, by supporting them with consultancy in communication and marketing. The more I spend my time outside Hong Kong, the more I sense a desire to be part of the international wine family.

 

Writing about wine represents a moment of reflection, curiosity, atitudes and a desire to analyse often hidden structures and history, in an effort to make the wealth of wine accessible to a targetted, and hopefully larger audience.

 

I am not sure if I can wine proivde more accessible to all through this blog. But I am sure to write in wine means being involved in wine and  to remain as impartial and objective as possible.

 

Kevin Tang.

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