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We did not taste it again these years, so we will skip our views on this bottle this time. Suffice to add the consistent and comments from the international tasters:


95 points, James Suckling

I like the aromas of sliced mushroom, berries and wet earth that follow through to a full body, with super silky tannins and a chewy finish. A fit yet polished wine here. Try after 2020. (2/2012)


95 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

As I wrote in my barrel tasting note, 2009 appears to be the finest Gruaud Larose since 1990. Some of my concerns about too much brett in previous vintages are long gone as the purity of 2009 jumps out. Copious notes of sagebrush, cedar, cigar box, liquorice, incense, blackberries and lead pencil shavings suggest a big Pauillac rather than a St.-Julien. Broad, rich, full-bodied with good balance and abundant but sweet, well-integrated tannin, this big, masculine Gruaud Larose reveals remarkable finesse, richness, extract, density and a cascade of fruit nearly hides the high tannins. This beauty should be at its best between 2020-2045. Edited, (RP) (2/2012)


95 points Vinous

The 2009 Gruaud Larose has a fresh, backward, tightly coiled bouquet with ample blackberry and bilberry fruit, delicate tension and focus, and a nose that intends to last the distance (and why not?) The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and vibrant, laced-like tannin with a wonderfully detailed and persistent finish. There is some quality winemaking here, and it is a beautiful 2009 Saint-Julien. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting. Edited. (NM) (3/2019)


Also, 95 Points from Lisa Perrotti-Brown, who writes, 'The 2009 Gruaud Larose has a blended 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot. Medium to deep garnet coloured, it charges forth with warm black raspberries, crème de cassis and redcurrant jelly notes with touches of potpourri, cigar box, new leather, hoisin and molten chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is packed with black fruits and savoury layers with a firm, grainy texture and seamless freshness, lifting the long earth-laced finish.' Edited.

Deep ruby with a medium rim. Fresher than 2006, this 2007 is made in a dense and as if in a 'Garage' style, the discreet wood is finely toasted. This overall finish is fruity and elegant, with a bouquet of very ripe red berries (raspberry, blackcurrant), liquorice, and floral notes: full and silky in the mouth, with significant volume and refined tannins, ending in a long, creamy, fruity finish. The second glass turns a little sweet black raspberry and currant fruit along with hints of spring flowers, smoky oak earthy and spicy finish after 15 years of gracefully ageing. I recall when we tasted the wine ten years ago, 2007 used to have an unusual structure of acid and tannin frame for a humble Right Bank Grand Cru.



It is now a Cheval Blanc wine(since 2008), hence the 'status' seems higher. Also, in 2012, the composition changed to the majority Cabernet Sauvignon. So, most Merlot, like this 2007 vintage, is history and nostalgically treasured.The composition is 70%Merlot, 15% Cabernet franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon 5%Malbec.

The 20 ha of Quinault L'Enclos at the Southwestern quadrant offers a warm and early microclimate that allows it to reach optimal maturity each year. The 2007 climate is uneven, so this more generous terroir comparable to the best of Pomerol offers lots of relief. The vineyard planted in 1 single parcel is unusual for a winery of that size in the Right Bank. Manual harvesting respects a strict plot selection protocol worthy of the first classified growths. Vinification takes place in wood vats. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrels. The wine ages an average of 50% new, French oak barrels for up to 18 months, hence there is always some power and complexities.


Dr Alain Raynaud, the winemaker, was in hong kong in the old Peak Cafe Deco, showing most of his wines in the earlier 2000s. His wines, for example, Quinault L'Enclos 2007, are forward, sweet, ripe, round and supple St. Emilion wine styles that are drinking well young and can age gracefully. Some significantly higher scores were accorded.

The score for 2007 is not bad: RP91.



Clear, bright ruby. A classic display of an alluring nose filled with ripe cherry fruit, violets, vanilla and cinnamon. Light in the mouth with good earthy tones expertly blended with the cherry fruit flavours. It has a lengthy tangy, refreshing finish. 13% ABV. A simple, fruity Pinot Noir with substance.Worth a good try.


The Bruno Colin style always shows energy, even for wines at this entry-level. The grapes are rigorously sorted in the vineyard and then destemmed. As a result, the wines are powerful but do not seem over-extracted, even though the House is a strong proponent of punching down. Pure fruit is still preferred-for example- Elevage in wooden foudres to reduce the overt effect of the barrel.



This is a consolidation of the tasting and papers

written from 2006 to 2013. These write-ups had been with the orginal site Wine and Beyond, Yahoo, until the service stopped by Yahoo in September 2013.

 

For years I have been working with wines, either buying it, selling it to wine companies, lecturing and writing about it, and, not unimportantly, enjoying it with friends. If any of the articles on this site are worth reading it is due to my teachers, my mentors, my peers and friends, my students, and in particularly my editors who ignite in me a desire to communicate in wines.

 

Clinging to the trellis of wine, I started to get more and more involved with estates and winemakers, by supporting them with consultancy in communication and marketing. The more I spend my time outside Hong Kong, the more I sense a desire to be part of the international wine family.

 

Writing about wine represents a moment of reflection, curiosity, atitudes and a desire to analyse often hidden structures and history, in an effort to make the wealth of wine accessible to a targetted, and hopefully larger audience.

 

I am not sure if I can wine proivde more accessible to all through this blog. But I am sure to write in wine means being involved in wine and  to remain as impartial and objective as possible.

 

Kevin Tang.

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