Quite a sleek example, with a good sense of fleshy fruit in a relatively supple frame, this St Julien type of elegant personality is sure to be for immediate consumption. This 2002 bottle remains an attractive quintessential Pauillac, though. The reality is the 2002 Haut Batailley is challenging to come by, so this is a rare chance. Additionally, the price is reasonable as the comments are below average. Finally, of course, it could be a better vintage from Haut Batailley; however, the fruit style of 2002 is pretty preserved with this bottle. We find it pretty and agree with the Farr tasters that it is a 91-point wine.
Commenting on perceived alcohol, J Robinson says straight, 'A bit volatile and jagged. Not fine!'. Awarding it mere 87 points, RP remarks as follows. 'A reasonably successful wine for this vintage showing more of a St.-Julien elegance without the typical power of Pauillac, the wine has a dark plum/ruby colour, a slightly earthy, herb-tinged, raspberry and black currant-scented nose, silky tannins, medium body, and a pleasant finish. Drink it over the next decade. 87 Robert Parker, Wine Advocate (158), April 2005. Edited.
Neal Martin says, "Tasted blind at Farr's 2002 Bordeaux tasting. The Haut-Batailley displays a blackberry, graphite and tobacco-scented nose, which, compared to others, lacks some definition and lift. There is ripeness here but a touch of greenness too. Medium-bodied on the palate with a bitter entry, sharp, slightly aggressive tannins with chewy red fruits on the finish. Tasted October 2009.' 87Neal Martin, RobertParker.com, October 2009 Drink 2012-15. Edited.
The glass has a dark hue, a tight, black-tinged mat with a very opaque core. The first nose offers plenty of ripe dark fruit; the second has other minerality nuances such as oyster shells, briary and crushed stones. If you want power, this is not the wine for you. But if you are looking for Pessac Leognan 's classic elements closer to gravel, tobacco and autumnal leaves, typical of the commune, this is the wine for you.
The scores are pretty high and consistent, such as:
RP 94. A blend of just over 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Merlot (last year, I mistakenly wrote that the balance was Cabernet Franc). The opaque ruby/purple-coloured 2009 reveals notes of scorched earth/burning embers/charcoal, black currants, ripe cherries and lead pencil shavings. Full-bodied and pure with sweet tannin, this is an under-the-radar, high-quality claret to drink over the next 20-25 years. Unfortunately, as powerful and rich as the 2000 and 2010, Haut-Bergey's 2009 is another of the over-achieving, value-priced Bordeaux that is increasingly difficult to find. The estate, which is owned by Helene Garcin (who also owns Clos l'Eglise and Barde-Haut), makes the cult wine Branon from a vineyard adjacent to Haut-Bergey), is situated near Malartic Lagraviere and Domaine de Chevalier. Edited.
JS94. Blueberry and spices on the nose. Full-bodied, with super well-integrated tannins and a berry, spice and dark cherry aftertaste. Polished. Edited.
2000 Henri Gouges NSG is the first bottle from the Domaine I have ever tasted. After that, Henri Gouges has become my go-to Burgundy because it is fruity and unpretentious. It does not have the bitter earthiness of most traditional NSG. When matured, Henri Gouges remains round and fruity and balances classy with soft leather, truffle, fur, and game tones. Fruit remains lively- not the chewy, macerated fruits (prune) tough of most NSGs. That bottle of 2000, of basic communal NSG, reflects the consistent taste of the current vintage 2019, a lovely, brilliant crimson colour- a very earthy Nuits nose with some vanilla bean, too. On the palate, smoky, velvet-textured fruit without any tannin, but acids take their place, so the wine is nicely balanced. Not heavy, but an exquisite Pinot expression at the end.
The creation of Domaine Henri Gouges was the culmination of 400 years of family grape farmers, and it is, in many minds, the top domain in Nuits-Saint-Georges. His destems to make wine; he believes that healthy vines produce quality fruit and, thus, more expressive terroir-driven wines. What then is 'terroir-driven' is another issue.
The best score is Wine Spectator 93, which says, 'Ripe yet fresh and pure, this harmonious red boasts cherry, raspberry, floral and spice flavours, with refined tannins and vibrant acidity lending support. The finish persists, echoing the fruit and spice elements. Drink now through 2028.' Edited.
