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Le Bon Pasteur 1993 is a medium-bright ruby wine with an aromatic, floral aroma of cherry liqueur, blueberry, blackcurrant, and fine oak. It is a deep, supple wine blending lush Merlot and fragrant Franc fruit. The palate provides a fresh, juicy, mineral, dynamic, and intense experience, leading to a finish of truffle, mocha, undergrowth, chocolate, and sweet spice. With an ABV of 13.5%, this wine is quite spicy, with lifted acidity. Its lovely gentle extraction, well-fixed fruit, and reasonably long body make it a delightful choice. The wine's mid-palate stuffing nicely supports the suave tannins. Le Bon Pasteur 1993 is attractive when young and ageing gracefully, offering excellent value.


HKWS hosted a vertical wine tasting of selected vintages from Le Bon Pasteur three years ago, from 1990 to 2007. Although the 1993 did not stand out, it had been working well enough.


Michel Rolland left his mark on Château Bon Pasteur, a 15-hectare property in the quaint village of Maillet in Pomerol, completing his winemaking vision. His recipe involved harvesting grapes at their peak maturity, controlled maturing, and minimal yields. 2013, the castle was sold to a Hong Kong consortium, but Michel Rolland's influence continues to be felt in the vinification process.


The Pomerol appellation encompasses a multitude of micro-terroirs. Unlike the great châteaux of the Médoc, the vineyard is not in a single block but spread out over 21 plots. This patchwork of terroirs accounts for the wine's considerable complexity, deep colour, delicate bouquet, and softness typical of Pomerol and a generous, powerful side reminiscent of Saint-Emilion.


Scores are mediocre. JM Quarin gave an 85; WS an 87. 1993 was a 91-pointer for us, and it is still considered a great value.





The 2018 Château Berliquet uses a unique blend of 78% Merlot and 22% Franc, carefully crafted by the experienced team at Canon, including Thomas Duclos's consultation. This new style departs from its earlier vintages. 


This wine boasts a deep purple colour and a complex, layered style that reveals itself through its enticing aromas of black raspberry, white flowers, dried earth, spice, and forest floor. On the palate, it is medium to full-bodied with a rounded, expansive texture, beautiful tannins, and brilliant freshness and purity. The finish is characterized by a severe kick of minerality that lingers on the tongue. 


This wine comes from a smaller 10-hectare terroir on the upper plateau's clay and limestone soils. It will spend 16 months in 45% new French oak. 


It has been awarded 96 points by Jeb Dunnuck, who describes it as an exceptional wine with a unique combination of flavours. Similarly, James Suckling has awarded it 95 points, praising its delicate and fruity taste with hints of walnuts. Wine Advocate has also given this wine 95 points, highlighting the changes made by Nicolas Audebert, the winemaker, and his team, which resulted in optimal ripeness for both the Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Lastly, Wine Spectator has awarded it 94 points, describing it as a focused, restrained style with persistent chalky minerality and light tobacco shading throughout.




Chateau Monbousquet, a high-performing winery, produces a full-bodied, modern St Emilion wine that is a delightful blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is aged 18-24 months in new French Oak, contributing to its outstanding balance between weight and stability.


The nose is refined and elegant- exceptional from Monbousquet- with blackberry, violet, pepper, and coffee notes. The palate is fresh, mineral, and fat, with flavours of blackberry, blueberry, red fruit, and well-integrated oaky notes. The wine has ample, delicate, and well-built tannins, providing good length.


The terroir at Chateau Monbousquet is unique and blends warm, deep gravel to the south and sandy-clay soils to the north, providing a friendly environment for the vines, similar to renowned estates like Cheval Blanc and Figeac. The estate was elevated to Grand Cru Classe in 2006, a testament to its dedication to excellence and a significant increase in product performance. It benefits from Michel Rolland's expertise, whose consultation provides invaluable insights into wine production. The wine is recommended for cellaring for 10-20 years for optimal enjoyment. 


The scores are at the 95-point level. The 2018 vintage of Chateau Monbousquet has received glowing reviews from wine experts, including Jeb Dunnuck, James Suckling, and Wine Spectator. All expressed similar views that this wine boasts a dense, purple, and opaque colour, which hints at the richness and liveliness of its aroma. The bouquet is a delightful blend of cassis, chocolate-covered currants, new leather, and graphite, sure to arouse your senses and set the mood for a luxurious wine experience.


This wine's fruitiness is unparalleled, and its full-bodied richness and ample mid-palate depth are a testament to the purity of the fruit and the quality of the tannins. It is no wonder that this cuvée has been elevated to new heights, and Dunnuck himself suggests a cellaring period of 15-20 years for optimal enjoyment.


Suckling is equally impressed with this vintage, noting its attractive aromas of crushed berries and black cherries, with some violets and stones. The wine's layers of ripe fruit and tannins give it density and intensity, further complemented by its classy and polished tannins. Suckling recommends trying it after 2026 for the best taste.


Wine Spectator also praised this vintage, noting the espresso crema and melted black liquorice aromas, which give way to a lush range of cassis, plum reduction, and blackberry confiture flavours that roll through with authority. The buried graphite note carries a long finish with a hint of smouldering earth. This energetic style wine is perfect if you like muscle and panache, and Wine Spectator recommends enjoying it from 2022 through 2038.

Title. Double click me.

Beneath the amber light of a late afternoon, I swirled a glass of deep ruby wine, its earthy aroma permeating the air. With the initial sip, notes of blackberry and leather emerged, evoking a vivid memory of the vineyard of origin. This collection assembles my tasting notes and essays.

Composed between 2006 and 2013, these essays were originally published on Wine and Beyond and Yahoo, before the site's closure in September 2013. The disappearance of Wine and Beyond represented the loss of a significant chapter in my personal history.

Preserving these articles honours those memories and shares stories that continue to resonate. I have selected essays that best reflect the progression of my experiences in the wine industry, emphasizing pivotal moments and key lessons. Each narrative was chosen for its distinct contribution, whether by illuminating an aspect of wine culture or marking a personal milestone.


Over the years, my engagement with wine has encompassed purchasing, selling to wine companies, lecturing, writing, and, most meaningfully, sharing bottles with friends. I recall an afternoon in Bordeaux when a sudden storm forced us to seek shelter beneath the narrow eaves of an old vineyard cottage. Amidst the rain and laughter, a senior vineyard worker offered us a glass of Merlot he had personally cultivated. This simple moment exemplified the profound connection and shared experience that wine fosters.

 

If these articles resonate, it is due to the influence of my teachers, mentors, peers, friends, students, and especially my editors, who have inspired my passion for storytelling.

Rewritten 15 January 2026.

Kevin Tang

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