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A light style of wine, with a bright, red fruit and herbal character or early drinking consumption. Good length-tamed tannins. Consistent style. Stylistically, it offers a consistent yet unique red-fruited and forward style, which is rare to come by in last decade of hot years.



VindeTert awarded 93 points and writes, 'The nose is aromatic and elegant. It reveals notes of boysenberry, plum and delicate notes of cassis associated with a touch of undergrowth, mocha and flowers. The palate is fruity, gourmand, elegant, fleshy, complete, and racy and offers a beautiful definition, a mineral structure, roundness, suavity and an unctuous matter. On the palate, this wine expresses notes of cassis, blackberry and delicate notes of strawberry plum combined with touches of liquorice, chocolate, tobacco, a few slight touches of caramelized oak and a discreet touch of vanilla. Tannins are fine and elegant.' (Edited).


Licorice, coffee, floral, plum, damp earth and cassis scents pop from the deep-rubied, tight-rimed wine. With rich, fat, round textures and a sweet, ripe, liquorice, chocolate and plum-tinged finish, this fleshy, opulent Margaux wine is already starting to drink well purple and weighty. Kirwan 2011 is still structured yet relatively tamed and can crack right away. Compared to 2010, 2000, 2003 and 2012, which we tried in a roll, this 2011 is lightishly elegant; it gives a mouthful of purple flowers, mineral, red currant, and cherry notes mingle together and carry through the focused finish. Tannins are textured and fresh. 2011 is blend with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. Farr mentioned that the Boissenots had consulted here since 2007 (replacing Michel Rolland), and the wine is now less new-oak, less late-picked and less jammy in style. Kirwan is now a wine of classic Margaux elegance. There is good purity and structure, well-rounded tannins, and attractive red fruit. Still, it will need some time to open.


Scores are consistent and good. 92 Tim Atkins; 91 Jesannie CHo Lee, 91 GG.

Updated: Mar 5, 2024


Both vintage's nose liquorice, coffee, floral, plum, damp earth and cassis scents pop from the still profoundly coloured wine. With rich, fat, round textures and a sweet, ripe, liquorice, chocolate and jammy plum-tinged finish, these 2 fleshy, opulent Margaux wines is already starting to drink well purple and weighty. While Kirwan 2003 is still muscular yet relatively tamed and cxan crack immediately, 2011 under the baton of Eric Boissenot, the Médoc's master oenologist, is very drinkable and appealing. In great contrast to 2010, 2000 and 2012 that we tried in a roll, both 2003 and 2011 with some bottle age are elegant; lilac gives a mouthful of purple flowers, mineral, red currant, and cherry notes mingle together and carry through the focused finish. Long, bodied, tensioned. both 2011 and 2003 is blended with approximately 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. Farr mentioned that the Boissenots had consulted here since 2007 (replacing Michel Rolland), and the 2011 wine is now less new-oak, less late-picked and less jammy in style and 2003 is on the traditionally woody side. Kirwan is now a wine of classic Margaux elegance. There is good purity and structure, well-rounded tannins, and attractive red fruit. Still, it will need some time to open.


Kirwan 2010 is controversial if you read most of the tastings from better-known Bordeaux wine tasters.


Robert Parket et al. and VertdeVin think this wine is not for now: always a blockbuster with the more masculine side of the appellation providing density, power, a big body, loads of fruit, extract and richness. However, RP et al. wrote that this is not the case for now. Awarding it 95 points, VertdeVIn gives a contrasting tasting, saying the nose is elegant and aromatic and offers gourmandize, a certain richness, and concentration (but full of control). Vertdevin wrote this wine should be decanted so that the red and black fruit develop from primary through secondary to tertiary stages. It will have a good length if you oxygenate it enough. We find ourselves more in agreement with VertdeVin, at least with this: decanting dramatically helps.



The other camp(GG and WE) thinks it is time to crack a bottle of Kirwan 2010. Gilbert and Gailliard thought this wine was ready. They gave 95 points and commended its alluring, refined nose of fresh red fruit with subtle oak; its fleshy, fruit-driven attack, warmer mid-palate framing evident tannins. Wine Enthusiast awarded it 94 points, commending this total fruity wine's balance structure(acidity and ripeness) and its new black-currant character. It will develop relatively quickly but could hold at its peak for many years.


Two roads(views) diverged, though are not obliged to take anyone, but then took the other, each maybe just as fair.


JMQ94 is all right. WS92 is good enough.

This is a consolidation of the tasting and papers

written from 2006 to 2013. These write-ups had been with the orginal site Wine and Beyond, Yahoo, until the service stopped by Yahoo in September 2013.

 

For years I have been working with wines, either buying it, selling it to wine companies, lecturing and writing about it, and, not unimportantly, enjoying it with friends. If any of the articles on this site are worth reading it is due to my teachers, my mentors, my peers and friends, my students, and in particularly my editors who ignite in me a desire to communicate in wines.

 

Clinging to the trellis of wine, I started to get more and more involved with estates and winemakers, by supporting them with consultancy in communication and marketing. The more I spend my time outside Hong Kong, the more I sense a desire to be part of the international wine family.

 

Writing about wine represents a moment of reflection, curiosity, atitudes and a desire to analyse often hidden structures and history, in an effort to make the wealth of wine accessible to a targetted, and hopefully larger audience.

 

I am not sure if I can wine proivde more accessible to all through this blog. But I am sure to write in wine means being involved in wine and  to remain as impartial and objective as possible.

 

Kevin Tang.

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