I hunt down value wines with soul—the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and obliterate your assumptions about what "affordable" can taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Ready to explore? WhatsApp 852 66236747 or email cf.lau@dunndunnn.hk. -Kevin K Tang.
So, Desmirail. It’s a third-growth from the 1855 classification in Margaux—all about elegance and finesse. They’ve got this nice mix of modern equipment and old-school tradition going on, which gives you a wine you can actually drink young. Here’s the thing: their vineyards are spread across Cantenac, Soussans, and now Arsac too. That’s pushed the style lighter with these delicate floral and fruit notes, though honestly, the fruit quality may not quite hit what you’d expect from a classified growth. Not many writers talk about it, so getting a full picture is tricky, but it’s still a solid Margaux.
Now, the vineyard covers 37 hectares and is planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and just 1% Petit Verdot. It’s all on gravel, sand, and clay soils, and the vines are mature, over 25 years old. They’re into sustainable farming here, and they age the wine in 40% new oak, which gives you that fruity, toasty, earthy character with some structure.
Look, 2014 was tough, but this wine turned out well. When you nose it, you’re getting black cherries, violet, cedar, and tobacco leaf—really fragrant and floral. Take a sip: it’s medium-bodied with silky tannins, bright acidity, redcurrant, blackberry, those classic pencil shavings, and an earthy finish. Toasty, with some complexity, but I’ll be straight with you—it’s lighter than you’d expect for a classified growth, and the finish is pretty brief. Still, it’s approachable and pleasant.
Want to get the most out of it? Pair it with roasted lamb—skip the marinade—or grilled vegetables to play up those floral and fruity notes. Serve it slightly cool, around 18 °C, or even better, drop it to 16 °C and let it warm up in the glass.
The 2014’s actually fresher and a bit more intense than other vintages. And pricewise? It’s a great value by classified growth standards. It should age nicely for another 3 to 5 years.
I hunt down value wines with soul—the kind that tell stories, spark debates, and obliterate your assumptions about what "affordable" can taste like. The deal: Hong Kong prices with free delivery in urban areas. Six-bottle minimum. Ready to explore? WhatsApp 852 66236747 or email cf.lau@dunndunnn.hk. -Kevin K Tang.
Why Château Haut-Bages Libéral is the Underdog. So here's the thing—half their vineyards sit right next to Château Latour, and the other half are behind Château Pichon Baron. Prime real estate, right? Yet it comes in at about half the price of other Pauillac wines of similar quality. (Château Haut-Bages Libéral 1998 Price Estimate, 2024)
The catch? Their vines are scattered through different terroirs with varying exposures and soil types, making it harder to achieve consistency from vintage to vintage. This has kept them from commanding First Growth prices, even though Claire Villars-Lurton and her husband are making some of the most persuasive under-the-radar wines in Bordeaux. (Château Haut-Bages Libéral (Biodynamic), n.d.)
What's cool is their style—the limestone in their vineyards gives the wine this freshness and minerality that's pretty unique for Pauillac. They call it "Pauillac in lace"—more elegant and refined than the typical powerhouse style. It's the insider's Pauillac.
How to Talk About 1998 and 2007. 1998 serves as your secret weapon. The best ones are classic claret—not massive, but well-made. The Médoc's 1998s were overlooked, so pricing is still sane. They're drinking beautifully today and will hold another 3 to 5 years. No waiting a decade like with 2010 or 2005. 2007 is lighter and early-drinking, but Pauillac performed best in that vintage. The 1998 Haut-Bages LLibéralhas reached maturity but still shows vitality. Its tannins have softened, letting the fruit and tertiary notes shine. This vintage is ideal for those who appreciate Bordeaux with some bottle age and lively character. Optimal window: now–2028, granting flexibility for both instant enjoyment and short-term cellaring. Unlike the 1998 vintage, the 2007 vintage is still developing and can benefit from further cellaring. Price aggressively to reflect the vintage, the 2007 vintage was cooler and wetter, resulting in wines that are more restrained and elegant, with less immediate fruit intensity. Château Haut-Bages Libéral's 2007 reflects this style, offering finesse and a more delicate profile: imagine fresh red fruit racing across wet slate, balanced by fine tannins and bright acidity. Finish: Medium length, mineral-driven aftertaste. Higher acidity and refined tannins suggest it will evolve gracefully over the next decade. 2007's cooler conditions produced a wine with class and freshness that rewards ageing with bright fruit notes by now, a secondary bloom with complex nuances by 2026 or 2027, and peak complexity and character by 2029. This roadmap helps visualise the future pleasure that patience regarding this vintage can bring.
What the other Expert says. Look, these aren't investment pieces—they're drinking wines. While everyone's hoarding the big vintages, you get to enjoy elegant, mature Pauillac like Haut Bage LiLibéral998 and 2007 tonight. These are for people like you who actually like drinking wine, not just collecting it, and you are not chasing points but seeking drinking pleasure! Quite true, right. The 2 bottles are approachable Pauillac for those intimidated by the tannic monster, as well as for immediate pleasure over investment potential. While wine critics have different views on the 1998 vintage, Robert Parker did not specifically comment on Château Haut-Bages LiLibéral's998 Pauillac in the cited article. Instead, he highlighted André Romero of La Soumade as an outstanding producer in Rasteau! It is a favourite among collectors who enjoy mature, complex Bordeaux. For Wine Enthusiast, the 2007 Château Haut-Bages Libéralom Pauillac offers a lighter, more accessible style, making it an inviting choice for casual evenings and delivering immediate drinking satisfaction without extended cellaring. Instead of seeing it as not meant for long-term cellaring, consider it ideal for spontaneous evening enjoyment. This reconsideration positions 2007 as a lifestyle-friendly option, aligning vintage traits with everyday appeal. It's a lighter, early-drinking vintage that wasn't meant for long-term ageing and was initially overpriced. That said, Pauillac did perform best in that vintage, so if you've got 2007 Pauillac specifically, lean into that. Scores are not even in the 90s! Well, not bad. Let's buy more!
Why These Two Off Vintages Still Have Potential and Are Worthy. Both 1998 and 2007 are considered off vintages compared to Bordeaux's legendary years, such as 2000 or 2005. Yet Château Haut-Bages Libéral's refined vineyard management and winemaking allow these wines to stand out as early, approachable options without sacrificing structure. These vintages show that, also in less celebrated years, Pauillac wines can offer excellent quality and ageing potential. For collectors, there are opportunities to acquire mature or maturing Bordeaux at reasonable prices.
|
Final Thoughts. These are not trophy vintages; they're drinking vintages. While collectors chase 2005 and 2010, connoisseurs quietly savour the elegance and availability of 1998 and 2007. Château Haut-Bages LibLibéral a strong choice for exploring Pauillac without paying top-tier prices. The 1998 offers a rich, mature experience with classic Bordeaux depth. The 2007 is far more than an underdog—a wine with character, ageing potential, and value. These vintages deserve a place on your radar.
Imagine a cosy dinner with close friends, where these wines make life easier and become the centrepiece of your conversation. Picture opening a bottle of the 1998 or 2007, savouring each mouthful with a perfectly paired dish. Which date should I reserve your case for? A moment like this awaits you.
Copyrighted. Jan 2026. K Tang.
'We choose wines that have value and soul—bottles that tell stories rather than just filling glasses. Interested in prices in Hong Kong? Contact us via WhatsApp at 852 66236746 or email cf.lau@dunndunn.hk. Based in Hong Kong, we are fluent in Cantonese and English. Explore small-batch treasures from passionate winemakers. Enjoy excellent value and distinct character—bottles that spark conversations at dinner.'
- Kevin K Tang
When you pour the 2018 Haut-Brisson, you'll notice its beautiful deep ruby colour with a tight rim. Bring the glass to your nose, and you'll find violets, cherries, plums, liquorice, and a hint of smoke. On first attack, it's fresh and silky, with kirsch notes, dark chocolate, and crushed rock that add gentle bitterness and mineral depth. This medium-bodied wine is enjoyable right now and should remain appealing for the next three years—a perfect example of modern St-Émilion Grand Cru from the Right Bank. Also, according to Forbes, the 2018 Bordeaux vintage offers firm, somewhat closed aromas of wet earth, liquorice, bramble, and ferns, gradually opening to reveal deeper blackberry notes. In the glass and on the palate, it offers a subdued attack of liquorice flavours and finishes with hints of morel mushrooms, making it an excellent pairing for dishes like bean and mushroom stew or steak. Forbes suggests that, while the 2018 vintage is still young and recommended for enjoyment over the next few years, it already demonstrates the complexity and structure expected of a top St-Émilion Grand Cru.
The 2018 vintage marks a milestone for Haut-Brisson. For the first time, they didn't produce a reserve wine, making this the only cuvée and the most sought-after (CHÂTEAU HAUT BRISSON 2018 ST-ÉMILION, 2025). This 90/10 Merlot-Cabernet Franc blend, shaped by Rolland's modern touch and crafted by winemaker Jérôme Aguirre, who trained at Christine Péré-Vergé's vineyards in Pomerol, offers excellent value and shows a bolder expression and more refined finish than previous releases. (Les meilleures bouteilles de saint-émilion : la sélection du « Monde », 2025) What stands out is the increased complexity and depth, reflecting a focused and innovative approach.
Our verdict is: the 2018 Haut-Brisson is best enjoyed between now and 2027 for peak freshness. While the cellaring window is technically 3 years to us, the wine will not deteriorate quickly. With age, in the finish its flavours should evolve, integrating to reveal more nuanced notes of earthy truffle and softer tannins, while keeping its cherry and plum profile. As a mass-produced wine, it is better enjoyed for its taste and versatility than as an investment. The 2018 vintage is comparable to the 2015, which we tasted previously, and serves well as an approachable food wine.
Let's talk about the scores, because they're imposing. The 2018 Haut-Brisson received a 95 from James Suckling, who called it 'Best Ever'. It also earned a strong Wine Advocate 94 rating and a 93+ score from another critic, further confirming its status in the upper echelon of Saint-Émilions. (ChâteauHaut-Brisson 2018 – Abingdon Fine Wine Ltd, 2024) Decanter praised its elegance and structure, while Wine Spectator highlighted its complex layers and ageing potential, reinforcing its reputation amongst collectors. (Château Haut-Brisson, St-Émilion Grand Cru, 2018, 2019)
I haven't tasted the 2020 vintage yet, but I plan to, and here's why I'm excited: the 2020 received even higher acclaim than the 2018. Jeb Dunnuck gave it 96 points, describing it as "shockingly good" and "brilliant," with "remarkable purity." It also scored 94 points from both James Suckling and Vinous, and 91 points from Wine Advocate. The low yield of 12.5 hectoliters per hectare contributed to its exceptional concentration and depth. Like in 2018, it's composed of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Both vintages demonstrate the estate's high standards, and these reviews highlight just how remarkable the quality is.
Should you drink it now or cellar it? Both the 2018 and 2020 Haut-Brisson are versatile and can be enjoyed either way. Its approachable style and harmonious flavours make it a delight to savour now. While there may be some potential for price appreciation due to strong demand and limited availability, Liv-ex notes that price movements for 2018 Bordeaux wines depend primarily on their critic scores, with higher-rated bottles generally commanding higher prices, but this is not always the case. Maybe a similar situation applies for 2020 as well. Individual bottles may therefore perform differently, and there is no guarantee of significant gains across the entire vintage. High ratings and critical acclaim might influence future trends, but appreciation has been modest so far. For wine enthusiasts, investing should be more for personal enjoyment than financial gain.
