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We share JS's view on the bottle. The significance of this 23015 seems to lie in integrating Margaux's attachment in the modern style: software, articulate, and friendly. The aromas of dark cherries, plums, and blackberries present immediate depth, accompanied by subtly spicy and cedary oak with stony, minerally accents. The palate displays immense depth and presence without relying on brute force; it emphasizes charm and fluidity. This is a superb wine that should be tried from 2023 onward.


IT frame undeliverable the ability to combine elegance and power. Fully dimensional, This 2015 Chateau Lascombes, a prominent modern Margaux Cru known for its balanced and delicate wines, has a beautiful deep ruby colour with a narrow light pink rim. The nose features violet notes of ripe red fruits and vanilla oak, with a still-raw quality. The highly extracted palate reveals spice and sweet vanilla.



The Setting. Located just a kilometre from the beautiful village of Saint Emilion, Château Larmande is one of the oldest estates in the appellation, dating back to 1585. The estate creates its wines using age-old methods and state-of-the-art technology. It selects the best grapes from each parcel and vinifies them separately in small vats, allowing for full expression of the terroir.


The Terroir. The grapes are grown on the north slope of Saint Emilion, where red cherry/plum fruit is well associated with most vintages. The vines primarily grow in clay, with some limestone and sand, which adds complexity and a mineral finish. The wine's composition typically comprises 65% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon; it undergoes approximately 18 months of ageing in a combination of new(66%) and used(33%)oak, and this typically results in a wine with a dry, plummy, and nutty finish. Since 2018, 10% of the harvest has been aged in amphoras to enhance the fruit character while maintaining freshness.


The Vintage. The 2013 vintage of Château Larmande is a testament to the estate's commitment to quality and innovation. This vintage is characterized by its red fruit-driven profile, showcasing primarily red fruits, prunes, plum and blackcurrants, making it a pleasant experience for the palate. This bottle is approachable, with polished tannins and fresh acidity balanced by spice and toasty tobacco hints. The palate mirrors the nose, featuring added dimensions of menthol and rich black fruits, leading to a dry and nutty finish. This unique taste profile sets the 2013 vintage apart and makes it a must-try for any wine enthusiast.


Why Chateau Lamande 2013? I was first introduced to this wine by the maker, Claire Thomas-Chenard, who communicates exceptionally well. Following her activities in the first Vinexpo in Hong Kong, she hosted a tasting with leading bankers and connaisseurs in Central for me. She drew my attention to the rare red fruit notes, which become exceptionally well-balanced, delicate, and elegant upon aeration.


The 2013 vintage of Château Larmande has received moderate praise, partly due to the lacklustre vintage. However, if you're looking for honest fruitiness and approachability, what can you expect at this price level for a Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé?


The wine achieved a notable score of WE93 in barrel tasting. The review describes it as "both tannic and fruity, a balanced wine that could go far." It has weight, dark, dry tannins, and juicy blackcurrant fruitiness. This accolade is a testament to the quality and potential of this wine, reassuring you of its excellence and inviting you to experience it for yourself.






On the palate, you’ll find intense cherry fruit (both black and red) and fresh strawberries, offering a ‘creamy’ texture reminiscent of an excellent aged Rioja. The structure includes well-integrated acidity and light tannins, making it moreish and pleasant. Touches of dark chocolate, meaty flavours, and liquorice emerge on the back palate. The aftertaste is clean and intense on the nose. Tertiary aromas dominate, characterized by prunes and ripe fruit, harmoniously blending with spicy and balsamic notes from barrel ageing. Black pepper also serves as a reminder of the Graciano in this blend.


This wine demonstrates its elegance primarily on the palate. Its entrance is subtle, gradually releasing a flood of sensations. Hints of liquorice, candied fruit, and cocoa resurface, as do the balsamic notes detected on the nose. The well-balanced acidity and polished tannins emphasize its silkiness and roundness. It is a plush, sweet, and delicate wine, rich with nuances and complexity.


There is no reason not to purchase this wine unless you are not a fan of the traditionally tertiary style of Rioja Gran Reserva.


Why?

- It has excellent bottle age and is from a legendary vintage (2004, comparable to 1982 or 2005 in Bordeaux).

- It has received fantastic scores (97 from Decanter).

- It is offered at a great price (for reference, Haut Brion 2010 and Mouton 2010 also have the same Decanter score but are selling at significantly higher prices).

- This is a wine to keep (from 2004 onwards).

- It boasts perfect provenance (the frosted Burgundy-style bottle features a label with a Rembrandt-style portrait of a Spaniard, and the bottle is wrapped in a thin, twisted-gold-wire mesh).

- It was recognized as the Wine of the Year (2013) by one of the world’s premier wine magazines, Decanter.

This is a consolidation of the tasting and papers

written from 2006 to 2013. These write-ups had been with the orginal site Wine and Beyond, Yahoo, until the service stopped by Yahoo in September 2013.

 

For years I have been working with wines, either buying it, selling it to wine companies, lecturing and writing about it, and, not unimportantly, enjoying it with friends. If any of the articles on this site are worth reading it is due to my teachers, my mentors, my peers and friends, my students, and in particularly my editors who ignite in me a desire to communicate in wines.

 

Clinging to the trellis of wine, I started to get more and more involved with estates and winemakers, by supporting them with consultancy in communication and marketing. The more I spend my time outside Hong Kong, the more I sense a desire to be part of the international wine family.

 

Writing about wine represents a moment of reflection, curiosity, atitudes and a desire to analyse often hidden structures and history, in an effort to make the wealth of wine accessible to a targetted, and hopefully larger audience.

 

I am not sure if I can wine proivde more accessible to all through this blog. But I am sure to write in wine means being involved in wine and  to remain as impartial and objective as possible.

 

Kevin Tang.

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